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22 October 2009 @ 05:12 am
show me how to lie...you're getting better all the time....  
have another tutorial...

made this quickly for yavarice' use, since long-distance sewing help is quite difficult without pictures...figured it might come in handy for some other people, maybe. the picture/sewing quality isn't the best, so maybe I'll make better photo examples later or something.

it's probably best if you know how to do straight bias tape and outer corners first, since it's easier. I did a brief overview of it here, so familiarize yourself with that first if you haven't had any experience with it yet.

bias tape-kun first meets inner corner-chan.

similar to the process for applying bias tape to an outer corner, the first step is to line your strip up and sew to the point of the corner.

fold your tape over on the other side to overlap the first length, and again stitch to the point.

just to clarify the stitching again, here's the back.

the next step is to clip to the point.

just the fabric layer, no need to notch into the bias tape.

the next part is the trickiest step that I had the most trouble with (and developed amnesia about for six months...=___=;). it's hard to explain which way you fold it via text, so I took a lot of pictures to try to help make it as clear as possible.

take both of your bias tape edges and put them together, so that the length of the tape is running in a straight line.

it should look more or less the same on both sides.

here's a picture from the bottom to help further illustrate how it's folded. the seam allowances should all be facing away from the strip of bias tape.

from the side...

from the top...

next, take a ruler and extend the line from your fabric on down as if it continued through your bias tape. (this is the lightly penned diagonal line) then draw the angles like you would for an outer corner, but in this formation. the folds in the bias tape are making it try to close back in on itself in the picture (and resultingly skewing the proportions a bit), but all the lines should be a straight shot from point to point.

you'll be stitching from dot to dot.

okay, stitched. note: you might want to use a smaller stitch than I did here, it'll hold the corner together better/make it easier to stitch it precisely.

now clip away the excess fabric.

flip your newly mitered corner to the inside, using a point turner to push the fabric outwards to form a crisp point. trim away the excess fabric as needed from the seam allowances along the length of the bias tape approaching the point intersection.

it'll look like this on the back. secure it with slipstitching (optimally), or your preferred choice of bias tape finishing as detailed in the previous tutorial.

and it'll look like this on the front.

congrats, you now have an awesome corner.
Current Mood: crappycrappy
Current Music: you're gonna go far kid - offspring
friendly neighbourhood spidey pan: Pan //peek-a-boo!lelola on October 22nd, 2009 09:15 am (UTC)
This is awesome and very helpful! :D Thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial!
ryuuraigekiryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:17 am (UTC)
I'm glad you like it!
chibblesc: pic#58011228chibblesc on October 22nd, 2009 09:33 am (UTC)
ngl, scrolled past this to comment on the fucking catchiest offspring song EVER.
ryuuraigeki: *sparkle*ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 12:48 am (UTC)
you would.
Lyn: ishidarose_of_pain on October 22nd, 2009 11:36 am (UTC)
Whoo, I had been actually thinking of asking you if you could add inner corners to your tutorial and now you have. Awesome. ^^ My other question would be, following this method, what do you do when you reach the end? Do you fold over it a certain way? And how you end when you have a piece that's kinda continious (doesn't end at an edge/corner, one piece that goes all the way around since when you try to connect the ends via the way you add two strips together, it just gets twisted, so I've always wondered if there's a cleaner way to do it than what I do, lol)

Granted I'm usually too lazy to even do this method half the time, lol 'cause it takes forever to slipstitch and I hate doing stitch-in-the-ditch on it as I can't stand having stitches in the reverse color on the back. But I have tried to get myself to do this one sometimes. XD I did it on my Cloud belt at least!
メラ~女薇~: Peek-a-boostarlitrose on October 22nd, 2009 08:48 pm (UTC)
I hate doing stitch-in-the-ditch on it as I can't stand having stitches in the reverse color on the back.

It's been a while since I did this, and I've only done it once, but if you use one thread color for the spool and the other thread color for the bobbin, you can get the stitching to match for each side. I forget which is which though. xD But I used this for when I "lined" my shinigami top. :3
(no subject) - ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:08 am (UTC) (Expand)
Sander Fucking Cohen: Happy Captain Tight Pantschibik3r0 on October 22nd, 2009 12:24 pm (UTC)

Thanks for this~ :D It's always useful to have in my knowledge bank!
ryuuraigeki: ack.ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 04:43 am (UTC)
the icon matches the image o_o

now I'll contract gaysars....;_;
ms. sonnya marcelas0nified on October 22nd, 2009 01:22 pm (UTC)
ryuuraigeki: *sparkle*ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:17 am (UTC)
hope it comes in handy someday~
Olliesaber_rider on October 22nd, 2009 03:10 pm (UTC)
That is actually pretty cool. Also, my giant robot will smash them for a very reasonable fee.
ryuuraigeki: *sparkle*ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:08 am (UTC)
I always need more giant robots at my disposal.
Andy: mokonayavarice on October 22nd, 2009 03:26 pm (UTC)

So thats how the fold works - I'll be done my jacket soon™! I'll redo all my bias tape later with proper slipstiching to make you proud =D
ryuuraigeki: *sparkle*ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:13 am (UTC)
yay for adorably attached bias tape! :D hope the process is clear to you now that my advice consists of more than "IT'S LIKE A SANDWICH," haha.
Harlharl on October 22nd, 2009 07:14 pm (UTC)
y thx u sur
ryuuraigeki: *sparkle*ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:18 am (UTC)
メラ~女薇~: Ruki's Frosted Flakesstarlitrose on October 22nd, 2009 08:49 pm (UTC)
ryuuraigeki: TAKE THIS!ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:14 am (UTC)
glad you like it~ :D
tessceres: Ellytessceres on October 22nd, 2009 10:24 pm (UTC)
SO you know they never taught this to us in my fashion classes. Thanks :3
ryuuraigeki: studiousryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:11 am (UTC)
ohhhh, really? I always wondered if the bias tape stuff was some sort of like....trade secret, since I never see any books address tackling the corners (usually just straight lines). I had to read like 5000 books before I found a library book on sewing edges and corners for home decorating purposes that finally addressed the issue (although the inner corner process was really poorly illustrated, so I had to partially reinvent it on my own to figure it out).
(no subject) - tessceres on October 23rd, 2009 01:18 am (UTC) (Expand)
(no subject) - ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 01:19 am (UTC) (Expand)
ClueQueen: Tim Gunncluequeen on October 23rd, 2009 03:16 am (UTC)
=D THANK YOU!!! I needed this like WHAT. >> I was reading your other one. and Sarah said you did one for the inside corner and it's JUST what I needed!!! THANKS!!!!!
ryuuraigeki: *sparkle*ryuuraigeki on October 23rd, 2009 04:41 am (UTC)
I'm glad it's useful to you :D
Miyabi VonSexypants: crona ragnarok YAYtalianthala on October 23rd, 2009 03:54 am (UTC)
You're seriously the queen of amazing bias tape.
ryuuraigeki: *sparkle*ryuuraigeki on November 2nd, 2009 11:46 pm (UTC)
(Anonymous) on September 4th, 2011 04:51 pm (UTC)
a very explicit tutorial, thanks
ryuuraigeki: I am fine.ryuuraigeki on January 30th, 2012 03:16 am (UTC)
no problem! :)
guy_x2 on January 1st, 2012 06:40 pm (UTC)
Amazingly helpful tutorial!

On a side note, may I ask which sewing machine you use? I'm looking to buy a new one and I'm doing a bit of research into brands, features, etc.

Thanks, and keep up the great work!
ryuuraigekiryuuraigeki on January 30th, 2012 03:20 am (UTC)
Re: comments

I use this sewinng machine. However, I've heard that Kenmores have been discontinued, so it seems to be getting hard to find. It usually retailed for around $150, so if you're willing to pick up a used one, you may still be able to find it. It's a really solid machine that's been able to handle just about anything I've thrown at it (including stitching through up to 12 layers of denim).

The serger I use is a Brother 1034D. At $200, it's a very well-mannered serger, and much better than the singer variants at higher price points.